REGENCY INVESTIGATION

REGENCY PROJECT: REGENCY ARCHITECTURE

I chose to research the Regency period due to the societal impact during the early reign of the Prince Regent. The extensive influence of English culture emphasised new artistic pursuits. This included new architectural styles and revivals. To further understand my initial research into Neoclassical and Gothic Revival design, I began to sketch from architectural details that respond to the two styles. The Brighton Royal Pavilion is an example of authentic Regency architecture and interior design. Commissioned by the Prince Regent and designed by Henry Holland, the Pavilion represents the eccentric and exaggerated ideas of the time. This was where my design process began. 

BRIGHTON PAVILION IN FASHION

I visited and photographed intriguing elements of the Brighton Pavilion. It was exciting to see the cultural influence from Asian architectural design which creates a vibrant and intricately unique style. The concept of Shape and Pattern drove my ideas forward. The Constructed outline of the vast chandeliers as well as the exterior roof informed my designs as I researched form and structure. Vivienne Westwood's iconic ‘Portrait Collection’ pushed this idea forward and created a lasting concept. Using Westwoods fabrication techniques and structural design as well as the architectural shape of the Pavilion, I created a boned corset and underwear set that had a wired cage sat over the top to replicate the Regency Architecture.

FLORAL TEXTILES

After creating my own textiles from elements of the Regency Period, I began to research Regency textiles; pastels, florals, and animal motifs were extremely popular. I decided to focus on florals as the natural element of a flower also represents structure. I visited a flower and butterfly festival in America to take photographs to inform my designs: the hydrangeas formed my hand embroidery piece. I collaged my best photos in Photoshop to dry felt from, creating my own fabric panel showcasing a unique garden scene. I needed to create larger panels of symmetrical fabric, which led me to digital printing. I followed a similar rotation process to my Brighton Pavilion designs; however, I designed a circular pattern to reference Damien Hirst’s butterfly Kaleidoscope paintings. Richard Quinn also became a huge inspiration, firstly with his floral textile design and fabrication and then with his constructed shape, being similar to Westwood by using traditional English shapes and styles and then modernising them. From this I designed floral samples to layer underneath the butterfly rotations. From this I had to experiment with colouration and blending options.

FABRIC PRINTS AND PATTERNS 

I began to create symmetrical patterns from the same images in Photoshop, which formed my designs for screen printing and cyanotypes. I also wanted to maintain the theme of layering by adding contrasting elements of the feminine interior patterns underneath the structured architecture. After experiencing Regency structure through building, I wanted to see the parallels within the fashion; this led me to visit Buckingham Palace to see Princess Charlotte's wedding dress. I used this silhouette to create my own pattern pieces to create a white garment. I then paper cut stencils from my images of the Pavilion, which were used for spray painting.

SCREEN PRINT USED IN DESIGN

My final screen print design was printed onto cotton fabric as a repeat pattern. I wanted to experiment further with design and structure, particularly corsetry. I collaged my new fabric into my previous corset design, which led me to sketch new concepts to put structure into fashion. I also researched fabric manipulation to create some calico samples using pleating and gathering techniques that could be used within my designs. I decided to experiment with a more wearable design to contrast the structured cage; however, I still wanted a structured top that I created by manipulating boning.

FINAL PIECE: REGENCY COURT DRESS

My final piece was made up of two garments that use my floral fabric design. I delved further into Regency dress design, specifically the court dresses. As the empire waistline became increasingly popular, this impacted the strict fashion rules of Queen Charlotte’s court; which created an awkward silhouette. The fashion house Selkie emulates this specific style using feminine and whimsical characteristics. I printed my final fabric design onto satin and chiffon while also using a plain white satin to break up the fabric pattern. I chose chiffon specifically to create a sheer look so white pants could be seen underneath, similar to my Pavilion cage at the beginning of the project. Whereas the full satin garment, I could create more volume through the gathering for the Regency silhouette.